Restaurant review

vibrant British seafood in Shoreditch

Locally sourced, sustainable British seafood is a staple at Goddard & Gibbs at 100 Shoreditch Hotel, a new seafood restaurant which is run by chef Thomas Moore (formerly of Ormer in Mayfair) replacing the old Hoi Polloi restaurant inside the Ace Hotel.

When I visited on Friday night, the place was filled with fashion types wearing shredded Balenciaga hoodies. Wearing sunglasses indoors, families and first dates alike dig enthusiastically into gigantic platters of seafood to share and towering stacks of oysters. A good sign.

We are in Shoreditch so the interiors are fancy. Think terrazzo tables, large paper lamps, dark wood paneling and leather banquettes. Plus, a massive yellow wood sculptural centerpiece in the center of the dining room that wouldn’t look out of place in the town of Bedrock.

We started with a crunchy plate of light, bronzed and crisp fried calamari rings, drenched in lemon flavor and served with a creamy aioli dip that didn’t hold the garlic. I could have easily eaten another plate of this holiday squid on its own.

Unfortunately, the same could not be said for the rustic seafood stew with mussels and chorizo. There was a good kick, but it was a note and forgettable. As for the signature dish? Enter the heavy roasted skate wing. It was a real whopper that barely fit my plate and was definitely made for sharing (or for a very hungry person). The delicately sweet flesh was perfectly seasoned with salt and pepper and drizzled with an addictive XO chili butter, made with umami-packed dried scallops and shrimp. It was served with a portion of shovel-worthy, crispy skinny fries that I wished I never finished.

As for the signature dish? Enter the Roast Skate Wing

Goddard & Gibbs desserts are strictly super retro. The chocolate fondant smelled a bit like ‘Come Dine with Me’, with less backstabbing score and no more oozing chocolate center that melted into a glorious goo. It was paired with a surprisingly crisp and tangy passion fruit sorbet to cut through the richness. My buddy went for a nostalgic sticky molasses cake with spiced apple ice cream, which tasted like Bonfire Night. Dozens all around.

Service was attentive, sometimes a little too attentive. The waitress was excellent at giving us recommendations and refilling our drinks, but it was a bit overbearing as the staff kept hovering over us and taking cutlery and plates before they were even finished.

Overall the food here is quite good and quite safe. Some dishes are bangers, some aren’t, and there’s a better ocean bounty to be had elsewhere in this town.

What is that? A classy seafood spot in Shoreditch inside the 100 Shoreditch Hotel (ex-Ace Hotel)

Why go? For the massive skate wing with XO butter that matches your head size.

The atmosphere A terribly chic and trendy haunt for fashion types, relatives and dates getting together

The food Seafood with more seafood – calamari and ray are the highlights.

The beverage A long list covers all regions and bases, from fortified wines to rosés, and from sakes to ciders and perries.

time out advice For a digestive, go to At Mr. Lyan’s new Seed Library bar next door.

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