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When looking at many restaurant menus, sometimes your eyes start to fixate on what appear to be similar appetizers, expected entrees, predictable salad structures, and the same old craft cocktails on black and white pages. White.
None of this is present at the new Supergeil restaurant in Corktown. The paper food and drink menu is nifty like a tarot deck or a whimsical children’s storybook. Right away, things get interesting with canned fish at the top of the menu: mackerel, mussels, sardines and tuna, served with an array of savory, pickled and crispy accessories.
It sets the tone for the new avant-garde restaurant with cuisine influenced by the Balkan region and beyond. It’s decidedly hip with fun artwork, bright colors, and vinyl on the stereo, and great for groups with its sharing plates and large tables.
I rushed here when Supergeil opened in July to try their doner kebab, a colorful, multi-texture sandwich made with thinly sliced lamb and beef, crunchy coleslaw, and savory sauces stuffed into a flatbread. beautifully grilled and baked. The restaurant is rightly proud of this sandwich and wants to be able to serve it to everyone. Executive Chef Brendan McCall and Executive Chef Joshua Taylor also offer chicken and eggplant versions and an option for gluten-free bread.
Another star is the Turkish sandwich and the wolf. The vegetarian dish kind of reminded me of a 21st century version of a deli sandwich that you can find across the street at the longtime Hygrade Deli. The expertly toasted, solid rye bread fits in creamy coleslaw and freshly melted cheese, but it’s the braised Swiss chard, seasoned like corned beef, that really sing.
(If you’re wondering if there’s a connection to New Orleans restaurant Turkey and the Wolf, which offers a similar sandwich, Supergeil has confirmed that yes, it’s a tribute to them.)
Get either sandwich with crispy fries, drizzled with a flavorful and creamy sauce and dressed in a few velvety, bitter microgreens and a few sliced chilies for a punch. Another shareable good are the devil’s eggs topped with salmon roe. Both courses are also available on the happy hour menu (Tuesday through Thursday, 4 p.m. to 6 p.m.) for just a few dollars.
Also good with fries, kreuzburger is a simple, juicy and flavorful sea bass burger with American cheese, onion, and pickles.
The spacious Supergiel – which translates to “super cool” or “awesome” in German – is full of colorful art, exposed brickwork, and creative touches. You can be seated in a circular sunbathing booth under wicker light fixtures and bright green hanging plants, or in a room by the kitchen next to a huge black-and-white mural of wild animals. Sit alone at the bar and contemplate the portrait of actor Jeff Goldblum holding a velociraptor like a lamb, or bring your entire group to a table in the event space, which is home to a large living fig tree.
A big part of the experience at Supergeil is the bar program, which features craft cocktails with and without alcohol, and uses many of the same flavors and spices you’ll find in the food here.
Supergeil is owned by the founder of Two James Spirits, David Landrum; the distillery and tasting room are across the street. The restaurant’s license allows it to serve only alcohol they produce or import, says bar manager Ryan Sparks. Expect plenty of Two James products, house liquors, sherry, and imported wine.
You can’t get a Miller High Life and a shot of Jameson here, but why would you want when you can order a Kolsch style beer and a shot of Two James’ Smoking Gun Whiskey. However, gin is the star of the cocktail menu, and the Butter Herb Schvitz Martini is a marvel. Made with gin washed in olive oil, it is served with Bulgarian feta and olives.
I also recommend the Matrak from the draft cocktail list with barrel-rested gin and tonic with mint and chai flavors and aromas, served in a tall glass on ice. Get an alcohol-free botanical lift with NA Groni Parma, an alcohol-free blend with flavors of gin, verjuice (unripe grape juice), and Alta Amaro soda.
Since opening in the summer, Supergeil has been my favorite answer when people ask me which new restaurant they should try. It’s fun and interesting and good for groups or a solo tour, and the prices vary enough that you can keep it a bit tight or splurge. You don’t need a reservation; if it is busy you can go to one of the many bars in Corktown nearby and they will call you when your table is ready.
Supergeil recently extended its hours of operation to offer lunch on Fridays. They also serve lunch on Saturday and brunch on Sunday.
This Sunday, however, the neighborhood spot is having a special event from noon to 8 p.m. It’s a wassail (hot cider) party and market with a chance to buy wines, gift packages, and Christmas trees. Tickets, $ 55, include an all-you-can-eat Cornish hen feast with stuffing, roast beef sandwiches, popovers, candied yams and mashed parsnips, plus a glass of mulled wine or beer.
Twitter: @melodybaetens
Supergeil
2442 Michigan, Detroit
(313) 462-4133. supergeildetroit.com.
Evaluation: (excellent)
Hours: 4 pm-11pm Tuesday to Thursday. (kitchen closes at 10 p.m.), noon-1 a.m. Fri-Sat (kitchen closes at 11 p.m.) and 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun (kitchen closes at 8 p.m.)
Prices: Cans of fish, $ 15 or two for $ 28; entrees, $ 2- $ 16; sandwiches, $ 11- $ 14; large plates, $ 32- $ 48; dessert, $ 6; cocktails, $ 12; beer and wine by the glass, $ 5 and more; aged ciders $ 9 per glass, $ 28- $ 32 per bottle.
Reservations: No plug
Carry out: Yes, order via the site
Outdoor dining: Large patio and open area near the garage doors when the weather permits.
Noise level: Varies by room; vinyl records often play on the stereo
Accessibility: No barriers
Car park: Parking in the street
What do the stars mean:
– Good
– very good
– excellent
– extraordinary
More reviews:
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• Aldana brings the colors and flavors of Guadalajara to Troy
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